Hi, any info on top dressing and seeding would be great. I'm in north east Vic, so we do get frosts. I have tried to do some research but all Ive come up with is an annual rye grass with a clover mix. What sort of fertilizer can I use? Is top dressing with Ag lime a good idea? I really dont want to use Super(nasty stuff). I hope to cut hay in one paddock in oct/nov.Any input on this subject would be great.
1. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #0
Hi Posh. I am doing this too, at the moment, having just chain-harrowed my smaller horse paddocks, I’m wanting to improve pasture and re-seed after the dry year/s. (I’m also going to look at putting gravel/scoria in the gateways to prevent the damage there and the bog in winter!)
Two sites worth a look re fertiliser and seed:
1. This company produces a natural mineral fertiliser:
2. I’m investigating seed from this place: (Smaller quantities available, so shouldn’t be as expensive as bulk buying) Look under Recommendations – Hobby / Horse Mix.
5. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #1
Thanks for the links opensky, I'm chain harrowing this weekend & ag lime next week. I managed to borrow a fertilizer spreader that hooks up behind the car.I'm watching the weather for just a bit more rain then I'll seed. Its not going to cost me as much as I thought. If I can get one paddock suitable for cutting hay my feed bill will be reduced for next year
2. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #0
Hi yeah I would love to know more too. I dont own the property I live on, so try to do everything on the cheap. We have some bare (soil) patches I would like to regrass.
I did the NSW DPI Prograze course last year. Our lecturer talked about anectdotal only praise of using Ag Lime on your manure / urine areas. I figured it cant hurt as its only like 5 bucks a bag so gave it a go. Theory being that it alters the PH of the area so that any grass that grows they are more likely to eat it (I should stress I picked up the poo or rested the paddock FIRST). I spread the Ag Lime about by hand from a bucket in a very amateurish way and left the paddock for 4 weeks. It grew back a really deep rich green and yes, the horses did eat it even though there is plenty of grazing in other areas as well.
As for my bare patches, I have gathered up poo, slashed paddock material and layered it on there. Then I add to that kitchen scraps and the grass is slowly growing back in those areas.
I havent wormed since December and my faecal egg counts are still coming up ZERO. Even though the above is now my practice.
3. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #0
so many variables involved stretching from soil type to trace elements to seasons to dominant rainfall periods.
best (and expensive) thing is employ an agronomist who will take soil samples and recommend a seed/fertiliser rate/mix.
Also contact the major pasture seed companies. The ones I'm familiar with are PPG/Wrightson and Heritage. Their agronomists can steer you towards the varieties suitable for your area. e.g., one of the brochures I have lists three different fescues, thirteen different rye grasses, four different lucernes and eight different clovers, just from one company to suit different soil types and rainfalls.
Or you can do what I did and ask the farm manager of the stud next door what they do in the adjoining paddocks and he gave me the complete pasture mix that was determined by the agronomist they hire.
4. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #3
I recently did some work on a paddock too. It was extremely sandy with not even one blade of grass.
We aerated it first then dropped a bit of sulphate over it by hand, using a bucket. Also did the same with phosphate. Neded to be done when it is about to rain. About 4 days later we seeded it with Equine seed mix.
You should see it now (about 8 weeks later)! Green and lush!!! We are now layering manure in the sparse bit and the grass is coming through there nicely.
Pillegro
I'd rather have a goddam horse. A horse is at least human, for God's sake. ~J.D. Salinger, The Catcher in the Rye
7. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #6
My OH is friends with a guy who happens to own a seed company. I can get you the contacts if you really want it. We paid about $10/kg - $15/kg for the seed from memory and used about 15kg to do 3 acres. Im not sure of the exact details because my OH organised it.
It is a great blend of clover, lucern, kykuri, oaten, rye ect.
I am located in Wollongong.
Pillegro
I'd rather have a goddam horse. A horse is at least human, for God's sake. ~J.D. Salinger, The Catcher in the Rye
8. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #7
Oh, and one other thing....
In regards to soil analysis - we spoke to the DPI, Farmers, soil companies. Every single one told us not to waste out money and just use it to by phosphate and Sulphate (or lime) as this would fix most soil issues. They DPI particulary said there was about 90% chance that it is what will be recommended anyway.
Pillegro
I'd rather have a goddam horse. A horse is at least human, for God's sake. ~J.D. Salinger, The Catcher in the Rye
9. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #8
LAST
I personally recommend doing a soil test, its not expensive, you can do it yourself, look in the back of Pat Colebys books, she explainswhat to do and where to send it to an independent company who doesnt then want to sell you products, its only about $100.
Australian soils are very deficient in so many minerals, especially where super and chemical sprays and farming have been used. Yes they will probably recommend lime, but its better to know what the PH of your soil is and how much lime is needed to correct this, dont put more than two tons to the acre, you are wasting your money, and may have to do it over a few years.
Aerating the soil can be great too but as has been said here it all depends on soil types, as to what is the best course of action If you want to plant lucerne be sure the ph levels are right, it needs to be from 5 to 7, or you will just be wasting your money entirely. Also depending on your climate and rainfall you need to know which type of lucerne and grasses to plant and which method to use to plant them by, ie, direct drilling, or open seeding then harrowing in, or ploughing up the whole thing, or maybe putting a crop of oats in for a year or two first
Using super totally locks up so many minerals and makes them unavailable to stock. apparently we need to increase the amount of organic matter on our soils and go back to harrowing and composting instead of using super
I have found that getting the ph right solved so many problems such as weeds etc, which I was going to spray, and so many grasses that i didnt know we even had just came back when acidity was corrected, I couldnt believe what happened over about a year. Also the horses looked so much better.
IF you are going to spend money you may as well do it right and if it means getting a soil test done i think its worth the money, or even the advice of a trusty farmer can be the next best thing, one whose pastures you admire and whose stock look great. Good pasture hay beats anything really, and with hay prices the way they are its really worth getting it right Also knowing what to plant for horses, there are so many different clovers, strawberry and white clovers a re good for horses, but not too much, its better for cows and sheep really. A good rye grass is essential, and cocksfoot and phalaris are great feeds too, as well as some natives and some herbages. Alot of grasses are geared towards heavy weight gain for cattle and are not really that suitable, such as fescue grass, they just explode on this if its dominant in the pastures. Also, you need to lock up the new pastures for a year so they can set seed Anyway, I am going on a bit, but its one of my new obsessions... so I will get off now
11. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #9
Hey zoom, I have pat colbys books they are fantastic, regrding natural feeding of equines. The only thing that has popped up since using this program, is when my mares have bloods taken prior going to stud, their iron count is low, but girls are girls. This is soon fixed with a course of Blud as a feed additive. Have had wonderful feedback from stud masters on the condition & fertility of my girls. I like to keep feeding plain and simple with lots of quailty roughage. The whole reason for this post, to get information from like minded horse people rather than sales men who will say yes to anything. (So many choices not enough money). I want to make my stud self sufficent when it comes to horse hay (filler for next year).
12. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #10
Hi bekka, thanks for the info. I can get the blend that you have stated in Wodonga. Good stuff I hope. Frost tolerant. I've just bought a pony from down your way, (Broomfeild) little sect A for my neice. Shes being dropped of at the race horse stables on tues or wed waiting to hear drop off time. I was lucky to get her on a truck because everybody is on the move. THE BANS HAVE BEEN LIFTED so all transport co's are flat out. Took me two weeks to get her a berth.
13. "RE: top dressing horse paddocks"
In response to message #12
Some very good advice here from all posters. We went down this path a few years ago and did numerous land management for horses courses etc. We were about to seed with a mix called "Wintergrass"...I don't know who supplies it, but we were in a VERY frosty zone, and we were assured it was suitable. But we moved, so we didn't get to do what we had hoped! But we found on numerous occasions that our local DPI was a good source of info...even just taking a weed into the office and asking them what to do about it..they were great. They'd come out and look at problems and give us advice. I'd recommend getting to know your local authority, whoever it is in Vic. I'd get out and ask local seed and fertiliser suppliers, see what they have to say as they are the people on the ground (LOL!!!small joke there!) But get to know your local ag authority too...they can be very helpful. Good luck! A.
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